Scion FR-S, GT86, FT86, and BRZ Turbo Kit Installation
Tools required complete selection of metric combination wrenches, 3/8″ and 1/2″ ratchets with deep and shallow sockets, swivels/extensions, an impact gun (air or electric), a small cutting device (pneumatic jigsaw or electric 4.5″ angle grinder), an adjustable crescent wrench. In addition, RTV sealant is needed for the oil pan and high-temp anti-seize should be carefully applied to all exhaust side threaded and clamping surfaces; Exhaust manifold bolts/studs/nuts, vband surfaces/nuts, wastegate actuator lock nuts and bracket screws, etc they should all have anti-seize!! Depending on your oilpan configuration, you may choose to weld a fitting on the steel OEM pan or use an aftermarket aluminum oil pan with drain fitting already welded.
- 3″ Exhaust: Full-Race 3″ recommended http://www.full-race.com/store/exhaust-systems/scion-fr-s-toyota-ft-86-subaru-brz-3-cat-back-exhaust-system-1.html
- Clutch: Exedy, OS Giken, ATS & Across
- Engine Management: EmTron (standalone) or Ecutek (piggyback) are most popular
- Fuel Pump: Walbro 255lph or the Fat Bottom 400lph/450lph is an old and reliable favorite, the DeatschWerks 265 / 320lph are also recommended.
- Upgraded Port Injectors: ID1000cc or DeatschWerks 750cc
- Fresh OEM spark plugs gapped at 0.030″
Step 1: Clocking the turbo and preparing for installation : Aftermarket turbos require you to “clock” the turbocharger center section and bearing housing upon installation to suit the application. Prepping your turbo for installation ahead of time can save hours during the install process. In the case of the EFR we also have a wastegate, BOV, coolant/oil feed and drain fittings and boost control all integrated into the turbo. This reduces the amount of parts needed for the install and means we must clock it into position for proper fitment, before taking the car apart. We suggest starting the install by “bench-assembling” the EFR turbocharger to reduce vehicle downtime – allowing you to get ready for the install before disassembling the vehicle. Take your time, starting this step a few nights before you plan to do the install is a good idea, since it will set the stage for everything else to come.
Step 1b (optional): If you plan to use the EFR turbo’s speed sensor, now is the best time to remove the compressor housing and drill/deburr for the speed sensor probe: http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/borgwarner-efr/borgwarner-efr-speed-sensor-kit.html
Step 1c: Once the turbo is clocked, Mount wastegate and bracket, using anti-seize for all threads – the Wastegate actuator arm must sit comfortably without misalignment or binding. Once it’s centered in the â€œhappy place” the actuator arm position dictates the center-section-bearing-housing’s final resting position. After completing this step, you can slip the 3/8″ coolant hose over the -6AN 90degree hose end barbs and use the hose clamps to fasten them securely . We also recommend to wrap the coolant line behind the turbine housing with self adhesive gold foil, to protect from the manifold and turbine housing’s radiant heat.
Step 1c: install WG with bracket, setting the EFR wastegate preload: the IWG bracket for a B1 frame EFR (6258, 6758, 7163) is very simple: use the original BW bracket that comes with the turbo.
*Optional – For high horsepower builds, fitting larger B2 frame turbos (7064, 7670, 8374, 9180) to this engine/chassis will require the â€œB2-EFR offset bracket” for actuator clearance. the largest 62mm EFR8374 and 67mm EFR9180 needs this extra space. You can optionally use a variety of different aftermarket EFR wastegates to achieve youre desired range of boost targets. E-mail [email protected] with questions on your application, we will be happy to make EFR wastegate recommendations based on the application, fuel used and target boost/hp level.
Step 2a: Accessory Belt and radiator hose heat-shielding: Now, install the accessory belt heat-shield. Put a wrench on the belt tensioner, to remove belt tension, and install an allen wrench to keep tension off the belt. Change the Bolts to Full-Race M10 studs, M10 couplings and M10 bolts.
Step 2b: carefully apply the gold foil to the lower radiator hose (helping to protect from radiant heat)
Step 3: Adding Oil Drain to Oil pan: This can optionally be done as step 2 if you have a second oil pan to prep, helping reduce downtime. You must unbolt the oil pan and remove it from the motor, to be sure all metal shavings are cleared before reinstalling with good RTV sealant.
TIG weld the -10AN steel weld-fitting as shown, in the upper LH position on the pan. After finishing this step, clean it. Twice. NO METAL CHIPS!!! Apply RTV and carefully install the rubber Reinstall, and allow to cure:
Then get the oil drain line together and in place. Use Clamps (not shown in photos):
Step 4: Oil Feed: Remove M18 oil pressure plug next to throttle body. Replace with M18 to -4AN feed fitting. Do not use Teflon on the -AN fittings.
This is a good time to test fit everything and make sure you have the turbo clocked in the correct orientation + WG bracket fitting within the firewall’s space constraints. Take care that the turbine housing’s clamps are located properly in the locked position and fully tightened. Double check that all fasteners and mating surfaces have anti-seize and are fully tightened, the coolant fittings have crush washers and that only the steel drain fitting’s 3/8″ NPT tapered threads (at the turbo’s oil drain port) has Teflon thread sealant. If you’re certain the turbo is ready, its time to bolt it on!
Step 5: Install Turbo Manifold, use antiseize & attach clocked turbo to Manifold: First, apply anti-seize to cylinder head hardware. Next, install the gaskets and turbo manifold, tighten hardware.
EFR7670 show here, M10 hardware (not M8)
Step 7: Orient and Install Charge pipes and Intake Tube: Now is an ideal time to begin mounting the intercooler and piping, this will require trimming the non-structural sheetmetal headlight support for charge pipe clearance. Start by removing the Bumper cover – Unplug fog lights, unclip and remove bumper cover, unbolt bumper beam crash bar, and remove plastic shroud on drivers side in front of radiator/ac condenser. Then, install and bolt the Full-Race IC mounting beam in place of the stock beam. Re-use the stock bumper mounting hardware, making sure there is a clearance around all edges of the intercooler and that there’s nothing touching or rubbing the IC.
Next, fit the charge pipes. The piping is routed to give you the best turbo response and spool possible, so its well worth the effort to do this. Go slow, check alignment and do not over tighten the clamps. Its easiest to start from the turbo’s compressor 90 degree silicone elbow, go to the intercooler, then to the TB. Hotside piping is routed from the compressor 90 deg coupler outlet. This outlet should be positioned parallel to the firewall, pointing directly at the driver side fender. The charge pipe will go from this 90 to the IC’s top endtank.
This is a great opportunity to perform a boost leak test and check for any issues now, before going any further. Some excellent tutorials on how to test for boost leaks are on Youtube so we will not go into detail here.
Step 8: Coolant lines: Tee into the 5/16″ throttle body hoses as shown
Step 10: Install Downpipe/Exhaust/02 Sensors: Loosely install downpipe, midpipe, and 3″ Exhaust at this time. Readjust the downpipe to make it fit perfectly with the exhaust mounted in place. Install Reinstall the O2 sensors and tighten the V-Band clamp. **We recommend that you coat the V-Band clamp’s threads and inner flange groove with high temp anti seize — this helps it tighten straight and the threads will last a long time!**Align all exhaust pipe components and fully tighten all hardware and vband clamps together, ensuring good alignment and no binding
Step 11: CATCH CAN there are 3 options for this:
1. Cap the port at the intake manifold and T both crankcase vents together to your Catch can inlet. Run a single outlet from the catch can to the pre turbo intake tube. This will always pull a vacuum on the crankcase, and it will not smell. Recommended for street cars)
2. Cap the port at the intake manifold and vent both ports to atmosphere – Upside is absolutely zero blow by will be going back into the intake tract. Downside is it can smell. Recommended for track cars or higher HP builds.
3. Run no catch can (like factory) OR a dual can setup. Not recommended because you will have a MAF leak at idle, and the tuner will need to rescale the MAF to account for the vacuum leak present when manifold pressure is less than atmospheric (ie: idle) – unless a check valve is added
Step 12: Prime Engine and Turbo with Oil pressure, prep for startup: Fully tighten the oil return, coolant feed and coolant return fittings then -> *ADD ENGINE OIL !!! *
A properly primed and leak-free oil feed and drain line are crucial to proper turbocharger health and performance – Triple check your oil fittings at this point since we want the turbo to immediately receive oil pressure upon engine startup. Check -4AN 90 degree oil feed to engine side – make sure it is tightened and will not leak and also tightened at turbo side without rubbing the stainless hose on anything. Check all hose clamps are tightened.
At this point the entire turbo kit is installed, and there should be no extra parts. Now is a good time to look everything over and make sure you are 100% satisfied with the connections and plumbing before starting the engine. There should be no loose bolts, no leaks and nothing rubbing. Fill the engine with oil (full synthetic!!) and with no spark or fuel (plugs disconnected) – so the engine can not fire – turn the key to the start position and let the engine turn over, building oil pressure and supplying to the turbo. After 15-20 seconds of cranking, check the oil level in the oil pan and make sure there is oil flowing into the turbo. Fully tighten the oil feed line and get ready to finish the fuel system and start the engine.
STEP 13 Misc: Reinstall Battery, Bumper Cover and Final Details: Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump, Engine Management and any Gauges:
-Install the pigtail plug on the BCSV if you plan to connect to the boost control solenoid. If no boost control is desired (minimum boost, WG spring pressure) an unplugged solenoid means you will simply be running low boost all the time, which is perfectly safe for starting with and troubleshooting.
-Install Fuel Pump
-Install Fuel Injectors
-Spark plugs heat range 8 or heat range 9 NGK iridium spark plugs
-Turbo blanket (optional)
-Wire BCSV to evap plug
-Check coolant and oil levels
-Double check that the heatshield at the serpentine belt is fully tightened
-Lastly, consider adding a catchcan between the PCV vent and the intake nipple