Full-Race Turbo Kit Installation

Click Here to view the Full-Race 2012 Si Turbo Kit

Installing a turbo kit requires a basic understanding of cars and turbochargers, a safe working environment and proper tools. Experience with previous turbo vehicles or Hondas helps but is not mandatory. A turbo kit install is not a good idea to rush into blind – prepare mentally by spending some time to learn about your turbo and read the EFR training manual. Get a good selection of tools and equipment to tackle the job. If you’re a noob and scared of messing something up, don’t stress – Take it slow and do some research, everyone starts where you are. Start by reading: Maximum Boost by Corky Bell and Street Turbocharging by Mark Warner. We strongly recommend reading the BorgWarner EFR training manual to understand the technology and features found on the EFR turbos. There are many ways to do a turbo install, this article presents a few different options and some “best-practice” and tips specific to this engine and chassis combination. If this article helps you, please share it with others! We will update this page as time goes on.

Full-Race turbokits are based on a high grade Investment-Cast stainless steel manifold using a unique velocity stack “bellmouth” shape to provide maximum flow and minimum pressure drop. The items you will need in addition to our turbokit are: 3″ exhaust, NGK ILKR8E6 stock number 1422 spark plugs, upgraded clutch/flywheel, injectors, fuel pump and HONDATA Flashpro + map sensor + obd1 IAT sensor. Optional components such as Gauges, electronic boost controller, vacuum block or catch can are optional. Motor mounts will soon be available from quality aftermarket brands such as Hasport and others. Email sales@full-race.com and we can get you a package pricing discount.

 

2012 Civic Si, 100% stock K24Z7, EFR7670 turbocharger


2012 Civic Si Full-Race Exhaust, Full-Race EFR Turbo Kit

Regardless of experience level, properly turbocharging a 9th gen Honda Civic Si can be a rewarding and successful project. These K24Z7 engines are unique with their integrated VTEC cylinder heads and a strong 2.4L bottom end able to reliably generate broad torque and outstanding power – at wastegate pressure on pump gas, using a safe and conservative tune (10-12psi recommended for stock internal K24). One big advantage to using an EFR turbo is they integrate many aspects of turbocharging controls into the turbo – allowing you to start the install by “bench-assembling” the EFR turbocharger and reduce vehicle downtime. Once you know the fuel used and boost level then choose who your tuner will be. We recommend whenever possible going to a local reputable experienced tuner who has experience with turbocharged k series Hondas. It can be helpful to have someone nearby experienced to lend a hand or look over the car should you have any questions.

Tools required are about the same as doing a clutch install (plus a few extras). A good selection of metric combination wrenches, 3/8″ and 1/2″ ratchets with deep and shallow sockets with swivels/extensions, an impact gun (air or electric), a small cutting device (pneumatic jigsaw or electric 4.5″ angle grinder), an adjustable crescent wrench, and a 3/8″ NPT tap. In addition, high-temp anti-seize should be carefully applied to all stainless steel threads and clamping surfaces; Exhaust manifold bolts/studs/nuts, vband surfaces/nuts, wastegate actuator lock nuts and bracket screws, etc they should all have anti-seize. Also make sure to have a friend or extra transportation available if you need to run out for something (like a large axle nut socket!)

Intro: Aftermarket turbos require you to “clock” the center section and bearing housing to suit the application. In the case of the EFR we also have a wastegate, BOV, coolant/oil feed and drain fittings and boost control all integrated into the turbo – this reduces the amount of parts needed for the install and means we must clock it into position for perfect fitment- prior to attaching the turbocharger to the manifold. Before taking the car apart, prepping the EFR turbo for installation ahead of time saves hours on the install process. Take your time with this, consider starting this step a few nights before you plan to do the install since it will set the stage for everything else to come.

Step 1a: Clock turbo, install fittings: Identically duplicate this turbo clocking position shown below. Reference the coolant fitting locations (in on the bottom and out on the opposite side top) using the supplied aluminum -6AN fittings and crush washers. Make sure to use high temp anti-seize on all turbo hardware and the special high temp lock-washers included should remain as pairs – not be separated or lost. They will keep tension on the turbo hardware and make sure the gasket stays leak free, never allowing vibrations or heat cycling to loosen from the manifold.

Once the turbo is clocked, Mount wastegate and bracket, using anti-seize for all threads – the Wastegate actuator arm must sit comfortably without misalignment or binding. Once its in the “happy place” the actuator arm position dictates the center-section-bearing-housing’s final resting position.

Step 1b: Attach clocked turbo to Manifold: Bolt the clocked and oriented turbo to the manifold using the supplied hardware and lockwashers + T3 gasket so it looks exactly like the above photos – pay special attention to the WG bracket orientation on the bearing housing, oil feed fitting and the coolant fitting positions in relation to each other. Double check that all fasteners and mating surfaces have anti-seize and are fully tightened, the coolant fittings have crush washers and that only the steel drain fitting’s 3/8″ NPT tapered threads (at the turbo’s oil drain port) has Teflon thread sealant – Do not use thread sealant on the compression fittings such as -6AN aluminum coolant or -10AN aluminum hose ends! However it is OK to lightly apply anti-seize to the aluminum fittings. Next, tighten the oil feed line’s 90 degree fitting to the turbo’s -4AN feed and route the hose toward the right hand side of the engine. When tightening this compression fitting be certain it is tight and can not leak but also that the stainless braided hose is not touching the manifold’s flange or turbine housing. Take note that the turbine housing’s clamps are located properly in the locked position and fully tightened. Note: If you plan to use the EFR turbo’s speed sensor, now is the best time to drill the probe.

Step 1c: preparing Vacuum Hoses for BOV and boost control: Insert the supplied 3/16″ vacuum hose on the BOV, and use a zip tie to keep it in place. Attach the Boost control solenoid’s long vacuum hose to the wastegate’s upper nipple, and slide the clamp in place. The only fastener you will need to adjust later is the Compressor Housings’ vband nut (you can leave this just loose enough to rotate the housing by hand, but tight enough that it isn’t rattling or falling off (we will fully tighten it in the car later, along with the downpipe’s vband clamp). Lastly, if you plan to use an electronic boost control (not required) you can plug the boost control solenoid in now. If no boost control is connected to the solenoid you will simply be running off wastegate pressure all the time.

Step 1d: install WG with bracket, setting the EFR wastegate preload: the EFR 7064 or EFR 7670 turbos come standard with BorgWarner’s “b2 bent bracket” and mid boost wastegate spring (ideal for 8-12psi boost levels). For any high horsepower builds, the large EFR8374 and EFR9180 come standard with a “b2 straight bracket” and mid boost wastegate spring – this fits perfectly in a 9th gen chassis. Installing the 7064 or 7670 turbo into a Civic Si (like we are doing here) requires swapping the wastegate bracket to the b2 straight bracket (from the 8374/9180) OR Full-Race’s offset bracket (supplied with the kit, shown here). This Offset bracket is the same one used on our 06-11 Civic Si FG/FA kits. For WG preload setting, please see the sheet that comes with your turbo, and also read the training manual mentioned above. In this instance it’s a 100% stock engine only for daily driving on pump gas. This car will not see race gas or higher boost, so we are using a base wastegate pressure setting 3-4mm preload (4 turns of the rear nut, locked in place with the front nut) and not connecting the boost controller. Optionally you can use a variety of different aftermarket EFR wastegates to achieve youre desired range of boost targets (many of which are direct plug-and-play no need to add threads with the die). E-mail tech@full-race.com with questions on your application, we will be happy to make EFR wastegate recommendations based on the application, fuel used and target boost level.

Once you’ve completed this step, you can slip the 3/8″ coolant hose over the -6AN 90degree hose end barbs and use the hose clamps to fasten them securely (do not rely only on the pushlock barbs despite what the hose mfg’s claim!). Now you’re almost ready to take the car apart and start attaching parts to the engine.

Step 2 (or optionally step 3): Drop Subframe, remove intake, exhaust and downpipe: In order to access the rear and bottom of the engine it will require similar work to doing a clutch install and also removing the downpipe/exhaust – BTW: now is a very good time to upgrade to an aftermarket 06-11 Civic Si clutch and flywheel. Also – unplug all 4 fuel injectors at this point.

 

A very short and simplified version of how to unbolt the front subframe from the frame rails and make room to work: First, safely get the car in the air, remove front wheels, lock the steering wheel in place, disconnect and remove the battery. Next, unbolt universal from steering rack splines (leave plastic alignment tab on the steering rack), unplug electric powersteering rack, unbolt lower control arms to separate from their ball joints (but not separating LCA from subframe), pull axles/intermediate shaft, then lastly using a floor jack or a friend, unbolt and lower the subframe. Having a second set of hands can help make this go quickly. (Your first time is always the hardest, it gets easier from there!). Unbolt and remove exhaust/downpipe, but save 02 sensors – you will need to install them on the downpipe later. Remove air cleaner box/intake and you can either leave the rubber snorkel thing in the fender or you can pull the fender to remove it. Examine all motor mounts for any cracks or signs of weakness/sagging. Examine LCA compliance bushings for damage – especially if the car is extremely low. If everything looks good, its time to do some work!

Step 3 (or optionally step 2): Prep For Oil Drain: This can optionally be done as step 2 if you have a second oil pan to prep, helping further reduce downtime but requires an extra oil pan.

The 2012 Civic Si’s K24Z7 oil pan is more difficult to adapt to turbocharging than most Hondas because they moved the filter on top of where K-series turbo engines typically return their oil. This was a helpful thing from a service standpoint, but requires a little more work when installing a turbo. You can do three options ranging from cutting and tapping the pan to just plain lazy (ghetto-drain not recommend!) and possibly an in-between option we will attempt on our next install. We believe strongly that unbolting the oil pan, cutting/drilling/tapping it, then cleaning out the metal shavings before reinstalling with good sealant (hondabond!) is the only way to go.

Remove oil pan. Decide where you want to trim webbing and drill/tap for oil drain. clean it. Apply hondabond. Reinstall.

NOTE regarding “Ghetto-Drain” – there is also a lazy/sloppy/ghetto way to do this, using the OEM oilpan’s drain as the turbo’s oil return. Under acceleration oil sloshing to the back of the pan can cause oil to back up so this is not recommended, the only benefit is time saved without pulling the oil pan off the engine. As you may have read in any of the previously mentioned books or manuals – turbocharger oil should always return it’s oil to the engine at or above the sump’s oil level, not below or at the very bottom! Yes even though EFR’s have double the seals as most turbos – it can be done and in some cases it works fine, but it may burn oil and is not technically correct.

Step 4: Oil Feed
This is a simple one: Remove oil pressure sending unit, install BSPT->NPT adaptor, 1/8″ Tee, then -4AN fitting and Oil pressure sending unit on the oil feed tee. Use Teflon thread sealant on all 1/8″ tapered threads here. Make sure it is plenty tight and wont leak, but don’t go crazy overtightening like mad.

Now is a good time to test fit everything and make sure you have the turbo clocked in the correct orientation and WG bracket fitting the firewall’s space constraints.

Step 5: prep chassis and subframe, remove extra tabs: When converting this car from NA to turbo, we have to make room for the turbo and intercooler pipes. Cut weight off shift linkage (insert rag in TB inlet and turbo inlet to prevent any metal sparks from entering the engine). Remove the extraneous and unneeded tabs and brackets pictured below:

Step 6: Wiring heat Protection: Next we have to protect all the wires behind the motor by wrapping with the self-adhesive gold foil. We like to use a paper cutter and cut the foil into 1″ strips, then wrapping that like a ribbon around the harness. Most importantly, wrap the wires which run along the firewall AND the powersteering harness at the RHS frame rail since they would be close to the turbine housing and downpipe. Remove blue plastic o2 sensor clip from firewall and run it along with the others.

Also you may opt to protect the electric PS rack’s harness located on the subframe, behind steering rack

Step 7: Install the Turbo and Manifold on engine, install Intake tube: If the test fit went well, all the wires are protected and the oil lines prepped – the fun part finally arrives: putting the turbo/manifold on the engine for good. Re-use the OEM multi layer steel gasket, just make sure it’s in good shape (they usually are) Apply high-temp anti-seize to the cyl head’s threads. Place the manifold and turbo assembly onto the engine, and tighten into place. Test fit the oil feed line to your feed fitting and also check oil return angle (should be vertical).

Next, in order to install the 3.5″ Intake, coupler/clamp and air filter you will need to create some space. Start by putting the 3.5″ coupler/clamp loosely on the turbo inlet and using the long straight end on the intake tube. You will see that you must remove the two small extraneous metal brackets from the wiring harness area – this allows the harness to be moved back and creates more space.

The shifter cables go under the intake tube, and the heater hoses go above. We add a simple zip-tie to keep the wire harness secure and moved away from the intake piping. We also loosen the heater hose clamp slightly, rotate it counter-clockwise then tighten the clamp, just to keep it away from the intake tube.

You may also gently move the brake lines to massage extra space – Lean against the hardlines with your hands or a rag and it will bend in easily – don’t go crazy, it just takes a little bit of push.

Step 8: Bolt up Intercooler Mount Beam, trim extra sheetmetal under frame rail at charge pipe area, unplug fog lights, unclip and remove bumper cover, unbolt bumper beam, and remove plastic shroud on drivers side in front of radiator/ac condenser. At this point you must make more room for the intercooler pipes by folding the pinch seam out. A big heavy hammer helps make this go fast.

Next, bolt your bumper beam in place, center the intercooler between the headlights, clamp in place making sure there is a clearance around all edges of the intercooler and that it is not touch or rubbing anything metal on the car or beam.

Double check your centering measurements, then drill the first tab into place with a 21/64″ drill bit. Tighten supplied nut/washer/bolt, then triple check measurements/clearance and drill the other side.

Step 9: begin orienting the piping and cooler: Now we can orient all charge pipes and couplers before clamping them in place. Using soapy dish water in a squirt bottle helps make the couplers slip into position. Note: this kit comes standard to fit the OEM intake manifold, RBC or RRC fitment charge pipe available also!

HOTSIDE IC PIPE: Starting @ Turbo compressor outlet -> 90 degree coupler facing LHS of car (optionally wrap coupler with gold foil) -> upper ‘A’ pipe -> 2.5″ coupler -> short lower ‘J’ pipe -> 2.5″ coupler > Smaller upper U-pipe -> 2.5″ coupler -> Upper Intercooler Endtank Note: Optionally wrap the 90 degree coupler with gold foil, important if you plan to road race or endurance race**

COLDSIDE IC PIPE: Starting @ Lower Intercooler Endtank -> 2.5″ coupler -> Larger lower U pipe -> 2.5″ coupler -> TB pipe -> 45 degree transition coupler

Make sure the pipes are not rubbing on anything: hotside pipes/intake tube should not touch any of the wiring harness/brackets/hoses or frame rail/subframe. Coldside pipes should not hit the clutch slave cyl hardlines or clip bracket. The aluminum charge pipes should not rub each other, if anything is touching, readjust so there is a small gap. Its ok to have slight misalignment in the couplers, just make sure the beadroll is firmly seated behind the clamp and everything is resting comfortably. You may need to fold or trim the sharp sheetmetal corner of radiator support (try a hammer or crescent wrench) to make sure there is no rubbing on the pipes. If everything checks out, tighten the clamps using 7/16″ deep socket (or 11mm deep socket)

Step 10: Going through the plumbing: A properly primed and leak-free oil feed and drain line are crucial to proper turbocharger health and performance – Triple check your oil fittings at this point since we want the turbo to immediately receive oil pressure upon engine startup. Check -4AN 90 degree oil feed to engine side – make sure it is tightened and will not leak and also tightened at turbo side without rubbing the stainless hose on anything. Measure the oil drain hose, cut it to length, attach it to the fittings, and use hose clamps to tighten.

TB coolant hoses – these hoses are only used to keep the TB warm in freezing cold conditions. For a performance application (especially a turbo one) we don’t want a heated TB – so we will repurpose these ports for the turbo. Intersting Fact: Coolant is used only for keeping heat out of the turbo’s bearings *after the engine is turned off*. When the engine is running, the oil is doing all of the cooling, the coolant has no purpose.Disconnect and attach the upper turbo fitting (coolant return) to upper TB coolant hose port at cyl head using 3/8″ hose, attach the lower turbo fitting (coolant feed) to lower TB coolant hose port at cyl head.

At this point the entire turbokit is installed, and there should be no extra parts. Give everything a double and triple check then get ready – its time put the subframe/steering rack/suspension back on the car.

STEP 11: REINSTALL SUBFRAME/AXLES + INTERMEDIATE SHAFT/ bumper cover

Remove driver’s side foglight from bumper cover and reinstall bumper cover. Be careful not to scratch the headlights or fenders and make sure everything fits comfortably over the intercooler and piping without metal-on-metal contact or rubbing.

STEP 12: Battery We previously removed th battery tray to fit the charge piping. Now, cut battery tray to save ECU mount tab, and reinstall to hold ECU securely. You have a few options for how to handle the battery:

  • Rotate battery and fabricate tray (Full-Race stock-location rotated battery tray coming soon!!)
  • Go to a lightweight mini battery (just don’t leave it sitting connected for weeks at a time without starting the car)
  • Move battery to the trunk: a battery mounted between the rear wheels improves vehicle handling (a good trick to doing this is to get a bmw’s battery cable from a junkyard, almost a perfect fit)


Now is a good time to look everything over and make sure you are 100% satisfied with the connections and plumbing. There should be no loose bolts, no leaks and nothing rubbing. Fill the engine with oil (synthetic!!) and with your injectors unplugged – so the engine can not fire – turn the key to the start postion and let the engine turn over and build oil pressure within the turbo. After 15-20 seconds of cranking, check the oil level in the oil pan and get ready to finish the fuel system and start the engine.

Step 13: Final Details: Install Hondata Flashpro, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump, Map Sensor, IAT/MAF and any Gauges: The Hondata FlashPro is a crucial component for proper turbocharging as it connects from your laptop’s USB port to your vehicles diagnostic port to provide real time programming plus a variety of calibration options and extensive datalogging capabilities. It also gives us full control over the new injectors and boost tables.

  • Install 1/4″ check valve in EVAP line to avoid losing any boost to the gas tank. Arrow must point toward the hose going to the engine.
  • Install the fuel injectors and Injector plugs – they are NOT polarity specific. Be careful not to confuse which cylinder corresponds to each injector plug
  • 2012+ MAF and IAT: The hondata flashpro for the 2012+ Civic Si requires that the MAF remain plugged in at all times. This is different from other year Hondas which allowed it to be removed. However we can intercept the IAT wires and use the obd1 IAT flange on our cold side charge pipe for temperature compensation. Hondata’s how-to is located here: http://www.hondata.com/help/flashpro/index.html?afm_removal.htm
  • Full-Race strongly recommends upgrading to the Hasport Rear Motor Mount