Full-Race’s S2000 turbo kits and manifolds have long been a staple of the S2000 community. Looking way back to 2003 we debuted our prostreet T3 kit using a GT30R to a huge response at the Import Auto Salon show in Philly. To this day, its hard not to come across mention of this legendary kit – even a google search for S2000 Turbo kit has the Full-Race T3 prostreet kit coming up first.
Since those early days we’ve continued S2000 development – working with 7 second drag racers, time attack teams and stock motor daily drivers around the world. There are three different S2000 turbo configurations Full-Race offers. Of these combinations, the deciding factor should be what turbo will be used, is the car LHD or RHD, and a realistic goal / desired power target (to choose turbo size/configuration). Each specification requires a uniquely different build strategy, info on each is as follows:
1) Prostreet T3: Our oldest S2000 kit. Tried-and-true, proven in many applications, this kit works best with small to mid size T3 singlescroll turbos such as gt30 or gt35 with a 44mm external wg. The exhaust manifold is our Prostreet T3 undivided 4->1 merge collector design to suit garrett, precision or borgwarner T3 turbos. The compressor inlet faces oil filter, wg next to motor mount (LHD only) – requires proper heat shielding protection and relocating the oil filter
2) Forward Mount: What this article is about. The forward mounted design is our latest and most refined S2000 turbokit design. It is compatible with stock location oil filter, LHD or RHD chassis, and EFR internal wg OR traditional T3 external WG turbos. Requires proper heat shielding protection.
3) Twinscroll External WG – this is our traditional Twinscroll-EWG turbo manifold – compressor faces RHS headlight, turbine faces crank pulley (LHD only) – it has slightly shortened cyls 1 and 2 to allow for a rear exit dp/exh. For drag race specific applications where the DP/exh will go out the hood or fenders, we offer a variation with slightly longer cyl 1 and 2 runners for high boost levels.
EFR Turbo Kit Installation
Installing a turbo kit requires a basic understanding of cars and turbochargers, a safe working environment and proper tools. Experience with previous turbo vehicles or Hondas helps but is not mandatory. A turbo kit install is not a good idea to rush into blind – prepare mentally by spending some time to learn about your turbo and read the EFR training manual. Get a good selection of tools and equipment to tackle the job. If you’re a noob and scared of messing something up, don’t stress – Take it slow and do some research, everyone starts where you are. Start by reading: Maximum Boost by Corky Bell and Street Turbocharging by Mark Warner. We strongly recommend reading the BorgWarner EFR training manual to understand the technology and features found on the EFR turbos. There are many ways to do a turbo install, this article presents a few different options and some “best-practices” and tips specific to this engine and chassis combination. If this article helps you, please share it with others!
Regardless of experience level, properly turbocharging a Honda S2000 can be a rewarding and successful project. These F20 and F22 engines are unique with their ultra high flowing VTEC cylinder heads and a strong stock bottom end able to safely and reliably generate outstanding turbocharged power – at low boost and on pump gas, using a safe and conservative tune (10-12psi recommended to start). One big advantage to using an EFR turbo on a N/A -> Turbo build like this, is they integrate many aspects of turbocharging controls right into the turbo – allowing you to start the install by “bench-assembling” the EFR turbocharger and reduce vehicle downtime during the install.
Full-Race’s VTEC turbo kits are based upon the simple principle that high RPM and high VE (volumetric efficiency) engines work best with no restriction on the exhaust side (lowest backpressure possible). Our legendary tubular turbo manifolds, downpipes and exhaust have gained enormous popularity as a result of proven HP gains for many enthusiasts. Each and every exhaust manifold is handmade in-house at Full-Race – we use high grade stainless steel and robotically TIG weld the runners, these are the highest quality and strength welds in the entire aftermarket industry – with not one single Robotic weld crack-failure since starting this process in 2003. As with all of our VTEC turbo manifolds, this design uses long runners and our trademark low-angle merge collectors for maximum flow and minimal pressure drop. The parts you will need in addition to the turbo kit are:
- Clutch: Comp Clutch, Exedy, Carbonetic/ATS or OS Giken
- Hondata and 4 Bar MAP Sensor:
- Fuel Pump: Walbro 255lph is an old and reliable favorite, the Deatsch Werks 265c is a perfect replacement for stock and Deatsch 320lph is a good choice if you want to build the motor later down the road. The 320 will fit without cutting but is a tighter squeeze than the 265c. The DW 320 is a turbine design, so quieter than the Walbro 255 and 265c.
- Injectors: DeatschWerks and Injector Dynamics are recommended
- 3” Exhaust
- 2 Step Colder Iridium Spark Plugs (heat range 9): NGK BKR9EIX, aka 2669. A gap of .018- .022 is recommended depending on boost level
- Hasport motor mounts are strongly recommended to have good motor mounts, especially when installing a forward mount kit to ensure proper engine position and hood/crossmember clearance
- Fuel Pressure Regulator: If you have an 06+ S2000 with returnless fuel system, you may want to upgrade to an external FPR and fuel rail with return line.
- Oil & Filter + Engine Coolant (you will drain your old oil during the install so do an oil change)
Once you know what fuel you will use and your boost level/HP target, next select who your tuner will be. We recommend whenever possible going to a local reputable experienced tuner who knows Hondata software and familiar with turbocharged Hondas (especially S2000s!). It can be helpful to have someone nearby experienced to lend a hand or look over the car should you have any questions. There are also many excellent E-tuning options to choose from, where the tuner can email you calibration tweaks based on your logs. We’re happy to make a recommendation for you depending on your location and setup.
Tools required: A good selection of metric combination wrenches, 3/8″ and 1/2″ ratchets with deep and shallow sockets with swivels/extensions, an impact gun (air or electric), an adjustable crescent wrench, 2.75″ holesaw and a 3/8″ NPT tap. In addition, high-temp anti-seize should be carefully applied to all stainless steel threads and clamping surfaces; Exhaust manifold bolts/studs/nuts, vband surfaces/nuts, wastegate actuator lock nuts and bracket screws, etc they should all have anti-seize!! Also try to have a friend or extra transportation available if you need to run out for something (like motor oil or hondabond RTV for the oil pan).
Aftermarket turbos require you to “clock” the center section and bearing housing to suit the application. Prepping your turbo for installation ahead of time saves hours on the install process. In the case of the EFR we also have a wastegate, BOV, coolant/oil feed and drain fittings and boost control all integrated into the turbo. This reduces the amount of parts needed for the install and means we must clock it into position for proper fitment, before taking the car apart. Take your time, starting this step a few nights before you plan to do the install is a good idea, since it will set the stage for everything else to come.
Step 1a: Prep Turbo, Clock center section, install fittings
First take off the actuator bracket that comes on the turbo, along with the WG canister – the offset bracket supplied with the kit will need to be utilized. Slightly loosen the Compressor V-Band and the turbine clamp bolts (with swivel plates – but do not remove), so you can adjust the turbo’s orientation. Next, study these pictures and try to replicate everything as closely as possible. Be very careful not to drop the turbo as the turbine wheel can easily be damaged. Reference the coolant fitting locations – in on the bottom front and out on the opposite side top (by the cyl head) using the supplied aluminum -6AN fittings and crush washers.
Once the turbo is clocked, you must mount the new wastegate actuator and bracket. EFR turbos come standard with BorgWarner’s WG bracket” and mid boost wastegate spring (ideal for 8-12psi boost levels). Installing the EFR IWG turbo into an S2000 (like we are doing here) requires swapping the wastegate bracket to Full-Race’s offset B2 bracket supplied with the kit, and shorter actuator. (You must trim extra wg arm length if offset bracket is used with Billet actuator as shown in the photo). Make sure to apply anti-seize to all threads – the Wastegate actuator arm must sit comfortably without misalignment or binding. Once it’s centered in the “happy place” the actuator arm position dictates the center-section-bearing-housing’s final resting position. We also recommend to cover the WG actuator canister with the self adhesive gold foil to protect it from the turbine housing’s radiant heat.
Note: If you plan to use the EFR turbo’s speed sensor, now is the best time to remove the compressor housing and drill for the speed sensor probe. Be careful not to damge the compressor wheel.
Step 1b: Test Fit clocked turbo to Manifold
Make sure to use high temp anti-seize on all turbo hardware and the special high temp lock-washers included should remain as pairs – not be separated or lost. They are uniquely designed to keep tension on the turbo hardware and make sure the gasket stays leak free at high temps, never allowing vibration or heat cycling to loosen the hardware from the manifold. Bolt the clocked and oriented turbo to the manifold using the supplied hardware and lockwashers + turbo gasket so it looks exactly like the above photos – pay special attention to the WG bracket orientation on the bearing housing, oil feed fitting and the coolant fitting positions in relation to each other. Double check that all fasteners and mating surfaces have anti-seize and are fully tightened, the coolant fittings have crush washers and that only the steel drain fitting’s 3/8” NPT tapered threads (at the turbo’s oil drain port) has Teflon thread sealant – Do not use Teflon or thread sealant on the compression fittings such as -6AN aluminum coolant or -10AN aluminum hose ends! However it is OK to lightly apply anti-seize to the aluminum fittings. Next, fasten the oil feed line’s 90 degree fitting to the turbo’s -4AN feed and route the hose toward the right hand side of the engine. When tightening this compression fitting be certain it is tight and will not leak, but also that the stainless braided hose is not touching the manifold’s runners, collector, flange or turbine housing. Take care that the turbine housing’s clamps are tightened properly in the locked position and fully secured to the bearing housing center section. Don’t forget the gasket!
Step 1c: preparing Vacuum Hoses for BOV and boost control: Insert the supplied 3/16” vacuum hose on the BOV, and use a zip tie to keep it in place. Attach the Boost control solenoid’s long vacuum hose to the wastegate’s upper nipple, and slide the clamp in place. The only fastener you will need to adjust later is the Compressor Housings’ vband nut (you can leave this just loose enough to rotate the housing by hand, but tight enough that it isn’t rattling or falling off (we will fully tighten it in the car later, along with the downpipe’s vband clamp). Lastly, we recommend using Hondata’s Boost-By-Gear (BBG) and you can plug the boost control solenoid in now. If no boost control is connected to the solenoid you will simply be running low boost all the time, which is perfectly safe for starting with and troubleshooting.
Step 1d: install WG with bracket, setting the EFR wastegate preload
For WG preload setting, please see the sheet that comes with your turbo, and also read the training manual mentioned above. In this instance for a 100% stock engine only for daily driving on pump gas (no race gas or higher boost) we suggest a base low boost setting of 4-6mm preload (4 turns of the rear nut, locked in place with the front nut). Optionally you can use a variety of different aftermarket EFR wastegates to achieve youre desired range of boost targets. E-mail firstname.lastname@example.org with questions on your application, we will be happy to make EFR wastegate recommendations based on the application, fuel used and target boost level.
Step 1e: Coolant Hoses
After completing this step, you can slip the 3/8” coolant hose over the -6AN 90degree hose end barbs and use the hose clamps to fasten them securely <use clamps, do not rely only on the pushlock barbs despite what the hose mfg’s claim!>. Now you’re almost ready to take the car apart and start attaching the turbo kit to the engine.
Step 2 (or optionally step 3): Starting the Install: remove all-motor intake, header and exhaust. Drop oil pan
Having a second set of hands can help make this go quickly. (Your first time is always the hardest, it gets easier from there!). A very short and simplified version of how to make room to work: First, safely get the car in the air, remove front wheels, lock the steering wheel in place, disconnect the battery. Unbolt and remove exhaust/downpipe, but save 02 sensors – you will need to install them on the downpipe later. there is a small metal tab for the OEM Airbox by the RHS strut tower, remove the 10mm screw to remove this. Examine all motor mounts for any cracks or signs of weakness/sagging – we highly recommend installing aftermarket mounts at this point. If everything looks good, and the clutch is installed, it’s time to drain and unbolt the oil pan and do some real work!!
Step 3 (or optionally step 2): Prep For Oil Drain
This can optionally be done as step 2 if you have a second oil pan to prep, helping reduce downtime. You must unbolt the oil pan and remove it from the motor, to be sure all metal shavings are cleared before reinstalling with good sealant (hondabond!). Basically we want to drill/tap above the OEM drain plug, where the aluminum is thickest, if you are building your motor you can put the oil drain in the upper oil pan, however most people just do it to the lower pan. Some people prefer to TIG weld this fitting, but most people prefer drilling/tapping to 3/8” NPT because you can find this tap at any local hardware store, home depot, etc. Go slow and don’t tap it too deep. Remove the fitting and check. If you mess it up, its easy to get a bigger 1 /2” NPT tap and start over:
After finishing this step, clean it. Twice. NO METAL CHIPS!!! Apply hondabond. Reinstall. Now is a good time to test fit the manifold and turbo, but do not fully tighten them since it will come back out for heat protection. Make sure you have the turbo clocked in the correct orientation and WG bracket fitting within the crossmember and hood’s space constraints, adjust the motor mounts if its hitting either one. Now – you can route the oil drain smoothly as shown:
Step 4: Oil Feed
Two ways to do this: For forward mounted turbos, we recommend coming off the VTEC solenoid’s unused oil pressure switch, however some people prefer to come off the oil pressure sending unit. It does not make any difference, despite internet myths. Make sure it is plenty tight and wont leak, but don’t go crazy overtightening like mad. At this point you must remove the turbo/manifold from the engine bay for heat protection application.
Step 5: Wiring and Brake line heat Protection
With the fusebox, AC lines, heater hoses and VTEC solenoid near the turbo kit – heat protection is a very important precaution on the S2000 engine bay. Now is an ideal time to gold foil your wiring harness, power steering harness, and anything that is up against the frame rail by wrapping with the self-adhesive gold foil. Also it’s a good idea to protect the underside of your hood. Take your time here and make sure everything is covered to your liking. Spending an extra hour on this step will be worth it long-term. We recommend to use a paper cutter and cut the foil into 1” strips, then wrapping that like a ribbon around the harness. Most importantly, wrap the wires which run along the firewall AND the powersteering harness at the RHS frame rail since they would be close to the turbine housing and downpipe. If your harness or hoses are filthy dirty, it may be beneficial to wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol to clean it and ensure the foil sticks. A turbo blanket, header wrap on the downpipe and additional heat shield measures can only help
Step 6: Install the Turbo and Manifold on engine
Knowing the previous test fit went well, all the wires are protected and the oil lines prepped – the fun part finally arrives: putting the turbo/manifold on the engine for good. Re-use the OEM multi layer steel exhaust manifold gasket, just make sure it’s in good shape (they usually are). Apply high-temp anti-seize to the cyl head’s threads. Bolt the turbo to the manifold, making sure to use the supplied gasket, studs and high temp washer. Place the manifold and turbo assembly onto the engine, and tighten into place. Test fit the oil feed line to your feed fitting and also check oil return. The EFR Internal-WG it can be tricky to install the turbo + actuator due to the clearance between the actuator and cross brace or turbo and hood. The motor mounts you are using will dictate fitment. In cars with heavily worn or broken motor mounts – the engine sits crooked and the turbo can hit the hood. With the hasport mounts properly adjusted it fits perfect, so we recommend them Typical aftermarket mounts when not adjusted perfectly, the turbo can hit the cross brace. Once adjusted right it all sits perfectly.
Step 7: Bolt up Intercooler
Now it’s time for you to get the intercooler installed – luckily this isn’t too hard. First, remove bumper cover. Before installing the FMIC, you must line it up and get it perfectly centered between the frame rails and headlights. Make sure to quadruple check with a tape measure that you locate the intercooler directly centered between the headlights before drilling the holes with a 21/64” bit for the mounting hardware. After the first hole is drilled, tighten the supplied nut/washer/bolt, then drill the other side.
Step 8: Charge Pipe Clearance
After the FMIC is mounted, you must holesaw the 2.75” holes in lower plastic trim piece to fit the charge pipes. This is not hard with the IC in place to line up with. Once that is done you are ready to install the couplers, clamps and pipes. Its easiest to start from the TB leading to the IC, coldside charge pipes are the easiest, just connect the pipes together starting from the bottom endtank to the throttle body. Put T-Bolt clamps loosely around the silicone couplers, then wiggle everything together (tip: using some soapy water in a spray bottle can help them move into place!).
The hotside piping is routed from the compressor 90 deg coupler outlet to the endtank. This outlet should be positioned above the crossmember, pointing forwards and angled down slightly. The charge pipe will go down around in front of the wheel to the IC’s endtank. It’s a little fussy to get everything set but proper angling of the coupler on the turbo and patience threading the pipe by all the lines in the back of the engine bay goes a long way!
Go over all piping and make sure the pipes are not rubbing on anything: charge pipes should not touch any of the wiring harness/brackets/hoses and not on the frame rail/subframe. If anything is touching, readjust so there is a small gap. It’s ok to have slight misalignment in the couplers, just make sure the beadroll is firmly seated behind the clamp and everything is resting comfortably. If everything checks out, tighten the clamps using 7/16” deep socket (or 11mm deep socket). Reinstall Bumper cover
Step 9: Going through the plumbing
A properly primed and leak-free oil feed and drain line are crucial to proper turbocharger health and performance – First, Triple check your oil fittings at this point since we want the turbo to immediately receive oil pressure upon engine startup. Check -4AN 90 degree oil feed to engine side – make sure it is tightened and will not leak and also tightened at turbo side without rubbing the stainless hose on anything.
Next, Connect BOV vacuum hose to intake manifold (Easy) and get ready for the coolant hoses. Intersting Fact: Coolant is used only for keeping heat out of the turbo’s bearings *after the engine is turned off*. When the engine is running, the oil is doing all of the cooling, the coolant does nothing in the turbo.
Connecting coolant lines to the S2000 engine can be tricky, there are 3 ways to do this. You can source coolant from the TB coolant hoses OR the oem oil cooler.
Coolant Option 1: Throttle body coolant hoses — guys have been doing this for years, and we do it on most K series installs. Disconnect and attach the upper turbo fitting (coolant return) to upper TB coolant hose port at cyl head using 3/8” hose, attach the lower turbo fitting (coolant feed) to lower TB coolant hose port at cyl head
Coolant Option 2: Intercept Stock antifreeze Oil Cooler housing (recommended)– intercept the 1/2″ lines with a 1/2″ -> 3/8″ barb adaptor and use the 3/8″ barb to feed coolant to the turbo. this is the easiest/quickest option works great. GOLD FOIL SHOULD BE USED ON ALL RUBBER HOSES IN THIS VICINITY
Coolant option 3: Delete Stock Antifreeze Oil Cooler Housing – Evans tuning does this on their installs, removing the housing altogether, using Honda oil filter nipple and then the original coolant lines only to cool the turbo. It comes out clean, but a bit more work required but for road race cars which need an external oil cooler or drag cars that need none – this is a great way to do it.
STEP 10: Install Downpipe / Midpipe/Exhaust/o2 sensors
Now the engine bay is heat wrap protected, manifold is firmly on the engine with a gasket, turbo is installed and plumbed, charge pipes and intercooler are in place. Install 3” Exhaust. Install the downpipe and 3” vband on the turbo loosely, then attach midpipe and exhaust. Keep the vbands floating to align them. Reinstall the O2 sensors. Readjust the downpipe to make it fit perfectly with the engine mounted in place, making sure everything fits comfortably without metal-on-metal contact or rubbing. Tighten the V-Band clamp. **We recommend that you coat the V-Band clamp’s threads and inner flange groove with high temp anti seize — this helps it tighten straight and the threads will last a long time!** Now you can fully tighten downpipe on the turbo
STEP 11: Battery
There are a few different options for the battery:
- stock battery with heat shield to protect it
- go to a lightweight mini battery (just don’t leave it sitting connected for weeks at a time without starting the car)
- move battery to the trunk: a battery mounted between the rear wheels improves vehicle handling (a good trick to doing this is to get an older bmw 3 series battery cable from a junkyard, almost a perfect fit)
Step 12: Final Details: Install Hondata Flashpro, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump, Map Sensor and any Gauges
Now is a good time to look everything over and make sure you are 100% satisfied with the connections and plumbing. There should be no loose bolts, no leaks and nothing rubbing. Fill the engine with oil (synthetic!!) and with your injectors unplugged so the engine can not fire. Turn the key to the start postion and let the engine turn over and build oil pressure within the turbo. After 15-20 seconds of cranking, check the oil level in the oil pan and get ready to finish the fuel system and start the engine.
Proper tuning is a crucial aspect of proper turbocharging – The Hondata FlashPro is usually the system of choice due to its simplicity/ease of use and price, it provides and plug-and-play connection from your laptop’s USB port to your vehicles diagnostic port to provide real time programming plus a variety of calibration options and extensive datalogging capabilities. It also gives us full control over the new injectors and boost tables.For a serious build, standalone computers such as AEM, Motec, ProEFI, Haltec, VIPEC, etc. can offer benefits, in the hands of the right tuner/calibrator.
- Install Flashpro: http://www.hondata.com/flashpro_s2000.html
- Swap to the Hondata Map sensor <plug and play>
- Install the Fuel Pump (easy to find a DIY online)
- Install Fuel Injectors – You don’t have to de-pin or wire anything if you have the plug and play clips. After you unplug the injectors, it is a good time to pre-lube the turbo system! Fill the motor with good synthetic oil and crank it over to get oil pressure in the turbo and feed line.
- Gap new iridium spark plugs, heat range #9 NGK BKR9EIX (aka stock number 2669) to .0022”
- Install breather filter, or hose/catch can off valve cover
- Install 1/4” check valve in EVAP line to avoid losing any boost to the gas tank. Arrow must point toward the hose going to the engine.
Note: For track or circuit use the oil filter should be relocated away from the heat and an external oil cooler should be added. Full-Race has a few different options for this, please enquire with any questions to suit your application
Note2: the weak point in these cars driveline is typically the rear diff. It has plastic preload spacers at the bearings which can distort and cause the rear to die, as well as hurting the trans. “Puddymod” does great work building the stock rears to hold the most power currently. some people install a nissan rear diff, other people have tried GM and ford stuff. carey bales runs a solid axle ford 9″ that completely bolts in. For a rear diff, carbonetic, quaife and wave trac are all good options. the stock rear diff is OK but a little soft, an aggressive diff really wakes up this car’s handling capabilities!
Built 2.5L S2000 with EFR7670 twinscroll kit, on e85 VS a 2.0L s2000 with competitors singlescroll turbo kit