Project R14 F.A.Q.

Q: What is required?
A: The parts you will need are : S14 chassis (S13 conversions available late '07), and R32 clip complete with engine, suspension, front and rear differentials, axles and transmission.

Q: How much does an R14 rolling chassis (not running) cost?
A: The base kit pricing (essentially a rolling chassis) will be ~$12,800 (steel single adjustable coilovers, 3" steel driveshaft) and ~$14,600 for the aluminum kit (aluminum double adjustable coilovers, 4" aluminum driveshaft). This price includes everything needed to get the car running, and all chassis fabrication. Wiring, plumbing and exhaust are not included in this price. Final pricing and turnkey pricing will be set by December ‘06.

We require the vehicle to be at our Phoenix, AZ facility for the conversion, and shipping/transport of the vehicle is not included in this price.

We will have an automatic quote generator on the website shortly.

Q: How much does an R32 clip cost?
A: Generally, early (zenki) R32 clips (up to 1993) can be found from $4000-$4500 in great shape. We recommend purchasing the (kouki) R32 (1993+) as they offer a better crankshaft, better transmission and are still R32 based. The Kouki clips generally go from 5000-6500 depending on condition.

Q: How long does the conversion take?
A: A rolling chassis will take approximately 6 weeks to build. Turnkey cars will take 8-12 weeks.

Q: Are RB parts expensive and/or rare?
A: RB parts have a reputation of being extremely rare and hard to find. The truth is that virtually any of these parts are actually quite easy to locate stateside, and many parts are far more affordable than you realize. Skyline GTRs have been around since 1989, so there is a tremendous amount of aftermarket support, for both used and new items. Ebay and yahoo are great places to score some incredible deals.

Q: Is it hard to get maintenance items?
A: Many of the "wear" items are available stateside. The oil filter is the same as the Z32 300ZX Twin-Turbo Filter. The Coilpacks are the same as the front coilpacks for a Q45. Some parts are considered more rare, but most are available for purchase from a Nissan Dealership.

Q: Is it hard to maintain?
A: The R14 is identical in maintenance to the R32 GTR. These are not the easiest cars to work on, but being proactive and intelligently building the car will result in a reliable, high performance vehicle.

Q: Why must I use an R32 for the conversion?
A: The R32 is required for the conversion due to the driveline, suspension geometry and affordability. Additionally, there were far more R32 GTRs in production than the other models (R33, R34) and as a result, the R32 is the most prevalent, and easiest to get parts for.

Q: How does the AWD work?
A: The GTR is different from most AWD vehicles in that the GTR is actually a RWD car which has the ability to add or subtract FWD. In fact, the car can be fully RWD (100% RWD, 0% FWD) and with a simple change on the controller, it can go from (10%FWD, 90%RWD) all the way to (50% FWD, 50% RWD).

Full-Race's innovative electronic torque split control system allows the driver to chose and set the torque split on the fly.

Q: Why wouldn't you just drive at 50/50 torque split all the time?
A: Using a fixed torque split of full-ATTESSA lockup at 50% front and 50% rear will cause a few undesired things to occur. First, it will promote understeer, as the vehicle has much more fwd than the design intended for. Additionally, if you chose to launch the car hard on a drag strip (using the stock front differential), you will likely damage the spider gears in the front open differential. This can be countered, however, by a simple upgrade of the front differential to a highly recommended LSD unit.

Q: What rear suspension do you use?
A: We use the existing rear suspension found on the 240SX chassis, and modify it accordingly to accept the GTR LSD/differential, Brakes, Hubs, Axles, and driveshaft. The S14 rear suspension is actually the same as R33/R34/S15 and offers one of the most advanced production suspensions available.

Q: Why do you eliminate ATESSA?
A: ATTESSA is known to cause oversteer. Particularly on the early R32 GTRs, the ATTESSA system was very slow to react and would often "add" FWD too little, too late. Many Japanese and Australian race vehicles have done away with the ATTESSA system and gone to a fixed, manually controlled torque split, similar to an EVO or STI. Adjusting the torque split allows you to change the balance of the car. If the car is oversteering, add FWD. If the car is understeering, add RWD. By utilizing a fixed tq split, the driver can learn to anticipate the vehicle's handling and will not be surprised by an understeer or oversteer condition when least expected.

Follow the link below to read a great article about the problems, and remedies of the ATESSA system on the R32 GT-R's.
AutoSpeed - Godzilla Tamed - 1991 R32 Nissan Skyline GT-R

Q: Why do you eliminate Hicas?
A: The main advantage is the removal of a system which changes the attitude of the rear of the car (not the driver). Most drivers prefer to be in control, not an ECU. It is very disconcerting to have chosen a line around a corner and then have the HICAS change it. You decide to correct, and the HICAS changes it again. This is very unsettling, and the primary reason most drivers get rid of the system.
In addition, the removal of the rear steering rack, HICAS ECU, oil lines, removing the steel pipes that run from the front to the rear and the 3 solenoids all adds up to significant weight savings of 59 pounds.

Q: What is the biggest tire that will fit?
A: We have a 285/35/18 A048R fitting very well currently. We hear that a 305 can fit, but have not yet tested.

Q: Can I tune on a 2wd or 4wd dyno?
A: Even though the car is an AWD vehicle, it can safely be run on a 2WD dyno. Simple turn the 4WD controller to “off” and the car is a RWD vehicle. For R33 or R34 skyline GTRs, it’s a good idea to pull the front driveshaft before dynoing on a 2wd dyno.

Q: What aftermarket components are available?
A: Virtually any/all R32 and R33 Skyline GTR aftermarket parts will work. What will not work are GTR coilover shocks.

Q: Weight distribution, a problem? Not 50/50.
A: Weight distribution is certainly not a problem. Proper chassis setup, accurate shock valving/spring rates and a stiff chassis will result in a very predictable, fast and accurate ride. In fact, Porsche is finally going away from its traditional 50/50 weight distribution to go to a 60/40 in favor of AWD.

Q: Why do you keep the stock links?
A: We use the stock links as they work extremely well. Many people swap the links out for adjustable heim-jointed units which not only wear out quickly (changing adjustment) but also are much more difficult to properly align. Nissan engineers went through great lengths to maintain full adjustability in the links by using eccentric locating bolts. The stock links eliminate many variable from the system, making the chassis very easy to setup and adjust.

Q: What do you do to improve bump steer and roll centers?
A: Full-Race is working on designing bumpsteer and rollcenter adjusters for the GTR. Simply inserting these components into the R14 suspension will improve handling at lower ride heights.

Q: What does "RB" stand for?
A: RB stands for Race-Bred, as the RB engines were developed by Nissan to be strong, reliable engines capable of incredibly high output.

Q: How will the R14 handle compared to a real GTR?
A: The R14 is simply an upgraded R32 GTR, and will handle identically. It uses the identical suspension components as a skyline GTR, identical driveline and has an identical weight distribution.

Q: How big are GTR brakes?
A: Front Rotor Dimensions

Model	Diameter	Thickness
R32 GTR	296mm	30mm
R32 GTR Brembo	324mm	28mm
R33 GTS-T	296mm	30mm
R33 GTR	296mm	30mm
R33 GTR Brembo	324mm	28mm

Rear Rotor Dimensions

Model	Diameter	Thickness
R32 GTR	297mm	16mm
R32 GTR Brembo	300mm	20mm
R33 GTS-T	297mm	16mm
R33 GTR	297mm	16mm
R33 GTR Brembo	300mm	20mm